Bonsai Cultivation

You should apply the product in a place that is easy to wash afterward, for example a bathtub, but never in the dishwasher. You should use a sprayer specific for these applications and wash it well with water and soap afterward. You should use disposable gloves or rubber gloves (only for this purpose, always washing them with soap) and a mask. Applications should be made in a well-ventilated area, and you should not stay in the area after application. Do not store the products within reach of children, animals, or near food. After application, you should wash the gloves well and then your hands with soap, and do not eat, drink, smoke, or use the restroom without washing first.

It depends, if they are fungicides, as long as they are properly tested on Bonsai and included in a logical prevention plan, it can be done, because this way we will be acting preventively, since fungi do not easily develop resistance and, if it happens, we can always easily replace them with others, it is not a problem.

If we are talking about Insecticides or Acaricides, they should not be applied preventively, only to combat infestations, because insects easily develop strains resistant to active substances and, in this way, when we have the pest, it will be resistant to the substance, very likely to other active substances in the same family (and sometimes from other families).

In any case, today the attempt is to cultivate Bonsai (and other Crops) on a preventive basis supported by nutrition and ideal cultivation, so the plant is more resistant to pests and fungi. For this purpose, try to respect the perfect location, watering, soil type, and interval between transplants, as well as provide the plant with quality fertilizers and nutritional supplements to facilitate cultivation.

Aggressive it is not, as long as it is applied respecting the indicated seasons and techniques; it is also not painful for the plant because, besides not having a nervous system, it is naturally prepared to be attacked by predators (which is similar to being pruned).

All types of plant cultivation are unnatural, which is why in agriculture it is necessary to fertilize, water the plants, and combat their pests. When we move to pot cultivation, it becomes more interventionist and we make the plant dependent on us; Bonsai is no exception. Indeed, the natural order is for trees to be born and die in forests; if we cultivate them (whether in the field or in pots), we are going against (or controlling) nature, but this does not mean they suffer, unless we fail them in some way.

It is common for a tree to live longer as a Bonsai than in nature, because in Bonsai we fight their natural enemies, avoid harsh weather, do not lack nutrients or water, and regularly provide high-quality soil; in summary, we create the perfect conditions for them to live.

It depends on the products; initially, agricultural products for Bonsai (or any other ornamental crop) have the same active substances as specific Bonsai products, but their quantities, doses, and synthesis (method of obtaining and origin) may be different.

The ideal is always to use products specifically for Bonsai and produced by specialized Bonsai companies; alternatively, verify the doses indicated for each species.

It is important not to standardize doses by comparing them with those used for trees in the field, even if they are the same species as your Bonsai. Keep in mind that the goals in the field are different from those in Bonsai (where aesthetics and the tree's longevity are the most important points). One way a plant releases toxicity is through its roots; in Bonsai, this toxicity easily transfers from one to another (due to the size of the pot).

In the case of agricultural and ornamental plant fertilizers, chlorides are often not removed, and the origin of nutrients is chemical and in high doses, which in Bonsai tends to salinize the soil, inhibiting the plant's uptake or even burning the roots.

First, we need to divide the term sick into three causes: pests (insect attacks), diseases (caused by fungi, viruses, or bacteria), and horticultural errors (excesses or lack of conditions necessary for the plant's survival - light, water, fertilizer, accidents with products that kill the plant, extreme weather conditions, etc...).

The big problem in diagnosing plants is that plants do not complain, and the symptoms are very similar for different causes. Therefore, the plant owner is 50% of the diagnosis; based on their description of how they cultivate the plant, we can identify the errors.

In any case, the main symptoms of pests are eaten leaves and insects visible on new buds, leaf axils, and undersides, and they can also attack the roots.

As for diseases, leaf deformities, color changes, necrosis (black spots), molds or powders appear, and the plant shows signs of thirst despite being watered.

In cultivation errors, the symptoms are very similar to diseases, with increased and discolored leaves (excess water and/or lack of light), dry leaves like tea stuck to the plant (thirst), necrosis and spots (toxicity, e.g., cleaning products, air fresheners, toxic chemicals, excess fertilizer), and reduced water consumption without an apparent cause.

Some sensitivity allows the beginner, even without knowing the diagnosis, to notice that something strange is happening, and the most important thing is not to delay or wait for it to pass because most problems are resolved if treated at the beginning.

Using a phrase from the renowned master Dan Barton: "Some say it is important to talk to plants; I think it is more important to listen to them!"

The first step is to review all maintenance care by correcting any errors, then you should stop the fertilization process, increasing the frequency of "Biobonsai" to weekly, and if the problem is root-related, apply a Fortifying Ampoule.

If you suspect fungi or pests, you should apply a specific agricultural product for the case (taking care as many become toxic to Bonsai). Ideally, visit us with the plant, or send detailed photos of it to our address dr.bonsai@luso-bonsai.com so we can ensure the diagnosis and recommend the product and doses to apply.

Besides being aesthetically suitable, Bonsai means tree in a pot, so the pot has great importance, functioning for the plant like a frame for a painting; finally, Bonsai pots have specific chemical and physical characteristics for the cultivation of trees in reduced spaces.

You should transplant your Bonsai every two years (a little longer for mature plants and pines). Ideally, outdoor species and those with dual locations should be transplanted in February/March, and indoor ones in April/May.

Transplanting is an essential process in Bonsai care, as it renews the soil (which becomes depleted after 2 years) and, by cutting the roots, stimulates feeder roots and creates space for the plant to continue growing in the pot (sometimes it may be necessary to increase the pot size).

You should never fertilize a sick plant (or one that has been recently transplanted), because it will force it to grow, making it use all its energy.

The fertilizer would give a “message” to the plant to grow, starting budding but, since it is weak, it would have difficulty sustaining it and accumulating new energy.

For a weak plant, we should combat the disease or pest (if applicable), increasing the frequency of the Fortifier ("Biobonsai") to weekly; if the problem is root-related, complement with a "Fortifying Ampoule", with "Rhiza-Bonsai", and with the application of "P/K-Bonsai".

Normally yes, as Bonsai products are always of low toxicity and carefully synthesized. In any case, for other specific cultures (e.g., orchids or cacti), it is advisable to confirm with specialists in the field.

You should always respect the dose recommended by the product manufacturer for use on Bonsai, applying the product with the plant well watered (to prevent it from absorbing an excessive dose of the product), but with dry leaves (if they are wet, it dilutes the concentration). The plant should dry naturally but without being exposed to wind, sun, or rain.

You should also allow an interval between the application of two phytosanitary products (e.g., an insecticide and a fungicide or two insecticides) of eight days, and between a phytosanitary product and a nutrient (e.g., fortifier or fertilizer) of 48 hours. This way, we prevent the products from neutralizing each other or causing chemical and biological reactions in the plant.

Through pruning, we shape and maintain the plant's form, increase its leaf density, reduce the size of the leaves and the distance between them. Finally, we balance the plant's energy (by pruning more the stronger parts, we counteract their dominance over the weaker ones).