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Among various shaping techniques, the most common is the application of wires (wiring).
This technique consists of wrapping wire around the branches of the plant so that we can then shape it into the desired form; the branch remains wired for the necessary time until it hardens in the desired position without needing the wires.
Contrary to what many people think, wires do not prevent the plant's growth; they simply force it to grow in the desired position. Sometimes it is necessary to remove them (before the branch takes a permanent set) and reapply them again until the desired shape is achieved.
Wiring is used in transforming “Potensai” (potential Bonsai – species that have the necessary characteristics to become Bonsai) into “Pre-Bonsai” (the stage in which the technique has been applied but the process is not yet complete) and in the improvement and aesthetic recovery of Bonsai.
This process can be applied to all Bonsai species, and certain rules must be followed.
Although experienced bonsai enthusiasts wire almost all year round, as long as the plants are strong, there are species-specific considerations.
- Deciduous trees can be wired at the end of Winter after the leaves have fallen, but be careful, as the flexibility of the branches is low and very drastic changes may cause the branches to break, especially in Summer if defoliated.
- Evergreens can be wired in Spring and Summer along with pruning, but if they are going to be defoliated, it is best to do it immediately after to have better visibility.
- Conifers (pines and Juniperus, etc.) can be wired at any time, usually along with cleaning pruning, but in Summer special care must be taken due to the high sap flow (especially in Pines), which when restricted by wires can cause certain branches to dry out or suffer internal breaks.
There are several wiring techniques, using one or more wires per branch (single wiring), which should be placed parallel and close together. The wire must be placed against the bark of the plant without indenting it, always at 45-degree angles. We can also use a single wire to wire two branches (double wiring).
The wire used is aluminum wire that has a copper coating so that its color does not stand out. This Japanese-origin wire comes in different gauges from 1mm to 6mm in 0.5 mm intervals. Its main characteristics are that it does not react with the plant (unlike iron which rusts or copper which develops verdigris), is extremely flexible, and can be easily shaped, removed, and reused.
For conifers, tempered copper wire can also be used, which is harder and can bend stronger branches with smaller thicknesses, which is especially important at the ends of pines to pass between the needles. Due to its strength, it is also more difficult to work with and requires more practice.
Besides wiring, there are other shaping techniques such as applying “pulls” with wire (or other material), placing weights, using special Bonsai tensioners that gradually force very thick branches on which wires cannot be used; this forcing can be to create or correct curves.
Whenever working with a plant with sensitive bark or intending to force the plant strongly, we can wrap the branch with moist raffia (or another material that protects the branch) before applying the wire.
In any case, it is always important to highlight that the wiring technique emerged in the last century and that Bonsai has over 2000 years of history; thus, the basis of shaping consists of making use of the plant's natural forms and pruning with foresight and knowledge of the species' natural sprouting pattern.